How to install grab bars without studs: what actually holds
You can install a grab bar without a stud, but only with hardware made for grab bars, such as a grab-bar-rated hollow-wall anchor like Moen SecureMount or WingIts, or by adding wood blocking behind the wall. Ordinary plastic drywall anchors, generic toggle bolts and suction-cup bars are not that hardware. On tile, drill with a tile bit and use an anchor rated for the full wall thickness; on fiberglass surrounds, use a bridging kit that carries the load to the studs behind.
Homeowner forums ask the same things in different forms: are toggle bolts good enough, can I screw into tile, what about my fiberglass shower, and do those suction bars work? Search results are split between installation guides and no-drill products, so this guide covers both honestly: what never to rely on, the three options that do hold, wall-by-wall advice, where no-drill bars fit, and where to put the bars.
A grab bar is only as strong as what it's attached to. This is general information; follow each product's installation instructions exactly, and if you're unsure what's behind the wall, or the bar will hold someone's full weight during a fall, hire a licensed contractor or a Certified Aging-in-Place Specialist (CAPS). These picks are researched, not tested by us: we chose them from manufacturer instructions and listings, homeowner and contractor forum experience, and owner-review patterns, and confirmed each one on its own live Amazon page. We quote load figures only where the maker or listing states them.
| # | Pick | Price | Rating | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Hollow-wall anchor for Moen bars Moen SecureMount Grab Bar Anchor (SMA1005CH) Moen's anchor for grab bars where there's no stud. |
★★★★★ 4.5 | Check price | |
| 2 | Hollow-wall anchor pair for WingIts bars WingIts RES Grab Bar Anchor (RC-RESGBW35-2) A pair of WingIts structural grab-bar anchors. |
★★★★☆ 4.3 | Check price | |
| 3 | Fiberglass and acrylic surrounds over wood studs The Solid Mount Grab Bar Mounting Kit for Fiberglass Showers A bridging kit for grab bars on fiberglass showers. |
★★★★★ 4.5 | Check price | |
| 4 | A bar to pair with SecureMount Moen 24-inch Home Care Grab Bar (8724) A 24-inch stainless grab bar. |
★★★★★ 4.6 | Check price | |
| 5 | Pair with bars: non-slip treads in the tub SlipX Solutions Adhesive Safety Treads Adhesive non-slip treads for tubs and showers. |
★★★★☆ 4.3 | Check price | |
| 6 | Pair with bars: sitting to get into the tub Drive Medical Tub Transfer Bench A transfer bench that straddles the tub wall. |
★★★★☆ 4.3 | Check price |
Moen SecureMount Grab Bar Anchor (SMA1005CH)
Key features: Listing states support up to 300 lb · Designed for grab bar installation with no studs (per the listing)
Pros
- Works in drywall and tiled walls when the hole is cut correctly
- Pairs cleanly with Moen bars
Cons
- Needs a large, precise hole; measure several times
- Other brands' flanges may not line up
Who it's for: DIYers installing Moen bars where there's no stud.
WingIts RES Grab Bar Anchor (RC-RESGBW35-2)
Key features: 3/4-inch drill size; 3-1/2-inch screws (per the listing) · Made to accompany WingIts grab bars (per the listing)
Pros
- Smaller hole than many grab-bar anchors
- Self-waterproofing design (per the listing)
Cons
- Designed for WingIts bars; check flange compatibility
- Ceramic tile needs the right bit
Who it's for: Installers using WingIts bars in hollow walls.
The Solid Mount Grab Bar Mounting Kit for Fiberglass Showers
Key features: Bridges the gap between the shell and a wood stud (per the listing) · For cavity depths of 1/8 to 1-5/8 inch; grab bar not included (per the listing)
Pros
- Transfers load to the stud, not the fiberglass
- Detailed instructions and video (per owners)
Cons
- Wood studs only: not for metal studs, tile or drywall-only mounting
- Studs must line up with where you want the bar
Who it's for: Homeowners adding a bar to a wood-framed fiberglass shower.
Moen 24-inch Home Care Grab Bar (8724)
Key features: 24-inch stainless bar, 1.25-inch diameter (per the listing) · Install into studs or with SecureMount anchors (sold separately)
Pros
- Pairs with Moen's own anchors
- Comfortable grip diameter
Cons
- The listing gives different capacity figures in different places; check Moen's instructions
- Mounting hardware for no-stud installs is sold separately
Who it's for: Anyone installing a standard grab bar beside a toilet or in a shower.
SlipX Solutions Adhesive Safety Treads
Key features: Adhesive non-slip treads (per the listing)
Pros
- Cuts slip risk on the floor of a tub or shower
Cons
- Needs a clean, dry surface to stick well
Who it's for: Anyone adding grab bars to a tub or shower.
Drive Medical Tub Transfer Bench
Key features: Height-adjustable legs (per the listing)
Pros
- Avoids stepping over the tub wall
Cons
- Takes space in a small bathroom
Who it's for: People who struggle to step into a tub, even with a bar.
Wall type: what works
| Wall | Best option | Watch for |
|---|---|---|
| Drywall over wood studs | A stud, a grab-bar-rated anchor, or blocking | Ordinary drywall anchors crumble under a fall load |
| Tile over drywall or cement board | A stud, or an anchor rated for the full tile-plus-backer thickness | Tile bit, slow speed, no hammer mode; seal the flange |
| Fiberglass or acrylic surround | A bridging kit into wood studs, or blocking from behind | Screwing into the shell alone flexes and can crack it |
| Plaster and lath | Find studs or add blocking | Anchor ratings are usually written for drywall |
| Metal studs | A contractor | Most bridging kits are wood-stud only |
The 2010 ADA Standards, written for public buildings rather than homes, require grab bars to resist a 250 lb force and place them 33 to 36 inches above the floor. They're a useful reference at home.
What you should never rely on
Plastic drywall anchors (the ribbed kind) are made for pictures and towel bars, not a person catching a fall. Generic toggle and molly bolts are better but still rely on the drywall around the hole and aren't designed for the sudden, angled load of a fall, which is why grab-bar-specific anchors exist. Screwing into a fiberglass or acrylic shell alone flexes it, and towel bars and toilet-paper holders aren't built for body weight, though people grab them anyway. That's exactly why a real grab bar belongs there.
Option 1: find a stud anyway
Grab bars come in many lengths and can be mounted diagonally or vertically, so moving the bar a few inches or choosing a longer one often lets at least one end land on a stud (usually 16 inches apart on centre, sometimes 24). On drywall, use a stud finder and confirm with a thin nail where the flange will cover the hole. On tile, look for clues: outlet boxes sit on studs, the toilet supply often runs beside one, and you can locate studs from the room on the other side. A mixed install, one end in a stud and the other in a grab-bar-rated anchor, is common.
Option 2: a hollow-wall anchor made for grab bars
These clamp the wall from behind and spread the load. Moen SecureMount anchors are designed for Moen grab bars where there's no stud; the listing states support up to 300 lb per anchor, and owners note the hole is large (a 1-1/4-inch hole saw is commonly needed). Pair them with a Moen bar such as the Moen 24-inch Home Care Grab Bar and confirm the anchor fits that bar's flange; mixing brands invites misalignment. WingIts RES grab bar anchors take a 3/4-inch hole, come as a pair for one typical bar, and are made to accompany WingIts bars, per the listing.
Rules for any anchor: check the wall-thickness range it supports (drywall alone, tile over drywall and tile over cement board all differ), use the exact drill size specified, use every mounting point on the flange, and test it by pulling hard down, out and sideways before anyone relies on it.
Option 3: add blocking behind the wall
Blocking is the gold standard: a horizontal 2x6 or 2x8 between studs at bar height, reached from an adjacent closet, during a remodel, or by cutting and patching a section of drywall. Contractors advise adding blocking everywhere you might ever want a bar while the walls are open: beside and behind the toilet, at the shower entrance, along the long shower wall and at a shower seat. If you're planning an aging-in-place remodel, put it on the plan; see bathroom upgrades for aging in place.
Tile and fiberglass walls
Tile: use a diamond or carbide tile bit, start slowly without hammer mode, keep the bit cool with water, and put painter's tape over the spot so it doesn't wander. Avoid grout lines and tile edges, confirm the anchor covers tile plus backer, check there's no pipe behind a large hole, and seal the flange and screws with silicone in wet areas.
Fiberglass or acrylic: there's usually a gap between the shell and the studs. A bridging kit such as The Solid Mount fills that gap and anchors into a wood stud behind the shell; per its listing it's designed for wood-framed fiberglass enclosures and isn't compatible with metal studs, tile or drywall-only mounting, so measure the cavity depth and find the studs first. Otherwise, add blocking from behind or place the bar where solid framing sits directly behind the surround.
No-drill and suction grab bars: when they're OK
Search for grab bars without studs and half the results are no-drill bars: suction-cup handles and adhesive bars. They have a place, but it's narrow. A suction bar is a balance aid for light touch, such as steadying yourself while stepping over a tub wall when you're already steady on your feet. It can release without warning, especially on textured tile, grout lines, fiberglass with a pattern, or after temperature and humidity changes, so it should never be the thing someone grabs during a fall or uses to pull up from a seat.
If you use one, mount it only on smooth, flat, non-porous surfaces, check the lock indicator before every use, and re-seat it regularly. Adhesive bars depend on surface prep and the tile's own bond to the wall, and their load claims aren't comparable to a screwed-in bar. For renters who can't drill, the safer weight-bearing alternatives are a freestanding toilet safety frame for the toilet, a floor-to-ceiling tension pole with a grab handle, or asking the landlord for permission to install a real bar (patching small holes at move-out is usually simple).
Where to put the bars
The 2010 ADA Standards for public bathrooms place grab bars 33 to 36 inches above the floor, with a side-wall bar at least 42 inches long and a rear-wall bar at least 36 inches long at a toilet. At home, fit the bar to the person: a horizontal side-wall bar helps with pushing up, and a vertical bar near the front of the toilet helps with pulling to stand. At a shower or tub, a vertical bar at the entrance helps when stepping in, and a horizontal bar along the long wall helps inside.
Try the broomstick test: have the person hold a broomstick where they'd naturally reach while sitting, standing and stepping, and mark it with painter's tape before you drill. Call a pro if you can't identify what's behind the wall, the bar will be used for full-weight transfers, it's a fiberglass surround with no access, or the wall is plaster, stone or cracked tile.
What matters before you buy
- Grab-bar-rated hardware. Use studs, blocking or anchors made and rated for grab bars, never ordinary drywall anchors.
- Rated for your wall. Check the anchor's wall-thickness range and wall types: drywall, tile plus backer, or fiberglass over wood studs.
- Matched bar and anchor. Use the bar maker's own anchors where possible; mixed brands often misalign.
- No-drill bars are for balance only. Suction and adhesive bars can let go without warning; don't use them to bear weight.
- Test before trusting. Pull hard down, out and sideways after installing, before anyone relies on it.
How we ranked these
We started from what homeowners and contractors consistently report holds (studs, blocking, grab-bar-rated anchors and fiberglass bridging kits), then checked each product's stated wall types and limits against its maker's instructions and listing. We left out generic anchors not rated for grab bars, and we don't recommend any suction bar for weight-bearing use.
Frequently asked questions
How do you install grab bars without studs?
To install a grab bar without studs, use a hollow-wall anchor made and rated for grab bars, such as Moen SecureMount or WingIts, drilled to the exact hole size and wall thickness its instructions specify, or add wood blocking between the studs behind the wall. On tile, use a tile bit and an anchor rated for the tile plus its backer; on a fiberglass surround, use a bridging kit that anchors into the wood studs behind it. Don't use ordinary drywall anchors or suction cups, and pull-test the bar before anyone relies on it.
Are toggle bolts strong enough for a grab bar?
Generic toggle bolts aren't designed for grab-bar loads and still depend on the drywall. Use a grab-bar-specific anchor, a stud or blocking.
Can I install a grab bar on tile?
Yes. Drill with a tile bit, confirm the anchor is rated for your total wall thickness (tile plus backer), and seal the flange with silicone in wet areas.
Can I put a grab bar on a fiberglass shower?
Not by screwing into the fiberglass alone. Use a bridging kit into wood studs or blocking behind it, or an alternative such as a floor-to-ceiling pole.
Do suction grab bars work?
Only as a light balance aid on smooth, flat surfaces. They can let go without warning and should never be relied on to hold body weight.
Does Medicare pay for grab bars?
Generally no. Medicare's national DME reference list denies grab bars as self-help devices. Some Medicare Advantage plans, Medicaid waivers and VA programs offer home-safety benefits, so check the specific plan.
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